The Door to the Dolomites, as Bolzano/Bozen is commonly known, is wide open and ready for the hordes who are headed for the Winter Olympics 2026 in Milano and Cortina. You may be bound for the bobsled, but apply those brakes and settle into this South Tyrolean treasure for a day or two, as it would be a shame to miss its charm.
How do I define South Tyrolean charm? Although you are most definitely in the Alto Adige region of Italy, the city centre is unmistakably Austrian with its peaked gabled roofs, timber-framed houses, and ornate Erker style bay windows. Yet, there is still hints of Italianate style, with arcades aplenty rivaling even Bologna and Torino, plus a Medici owned, Florentine palace plunked right in the middle of the main shopping street. So enjoy the combo and don’t be surprised if you are presented with a krapfen with your cappuccino.
FYI – all street signs are in two or three languages – Italian, German and the local lingo, Ladin.
Start Your Sojourn with Coffee and Cake alla Alto Adige
You most definitely want your first Bolzano bite to be something baked. Italians usually take only coffee and cornetto (croissant ) for their morning repast, Not in Bolzano, here they start the day at Café & Konditorei Lintner, or one of the many bakery/cafes in town, where the pastry counter is filled with the greatest hits of Austrian baking: Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Cake), Apfelstrudel (apple strudel), Sachertorte, the aforementioned krapfen.
This sweet is a donut-like pastry filled with cream or marmalade, usually found only from Christmas to Lent. Coffee usually comes with a side of whipped cream and a glass of water as a matter of course, so go with it.
Are you Team Walther or Team Dante?
Now that your breakfast needs have been taken care of, your second stop has to be the town’s main square, Piazza Walther/Walterplatz, named for the famed German Medieval, Walther von der Vogelweide, author of Unter der Linde.
From this very spot, you are welcomed by the imposing Dolomites surrounding the town. On the right sits the Duomo Maria Assunta church whose colorful roof is similar in style to St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna.
Taking pride of place is the central statue of the eponymous poet, a newish addition added in 1889. It was erected in response to the rival town of Trento placing one of Italian poet Dante in its main square as a political statement against Austrian rule. In a fitting standoff, Dante’s gaze is pointing to the north while Walther looks toward the south.
The Little Chapel in the Big Church
Steps away from Piazza Walther is the Chiesa dei Domenicani that is home to the small but stunning Cappella di San Giovanni. At first glance, you might recognize the frescos that cover the walls as those of early Renaissance artist Giotto and you wouldn’t be too wrong.
Strongly influenced by Giotto’s Cappella Scrovegni in Padova, local artists produced frescos similar in style and equally as dramatic relating the travails of Mary, Saint John the Baptist, Saint John the Evangelist, and others. Make sure to look up and revel in the starry night on the ceiling above.
Shop, shop, shop – It’s Italy after all
The arcades of Via dei Portici/Laubengasse were purpose built for shopping. In the past, market traders could set up stalls under the “portici” to protect their wares from the harsh wind, rain and snow. Now these vaulted ceilings keep you dry while browsing international and local goods such as winter woolies, carved wooden trinkets, and tasty treats.
At the intersection of Piazza Delle Erbe, you will find the daily farmer’s market selling local foods like speck, cheese, sweets, and produce from outside the city. Try not to miss the local apple varieties like Melinda and Marlene when in season – this area is the largest apple-producing region in Europe. You can even find them being given out at the airport gratis!
The Ice Man Stayeth
Although this museum is technically called The South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, it really is a one-man show – and that man is Ötzi! He’s that Copper Age kid discovered in 1991 and nicknamed for the Ötztal Alps on which he was found. Not only can we stand in awe of his almost completely intact, over 5,000-year-old mummified body, but also wonder at his designer accoutrements.
Found alongside his body were too many tools to list here but they include a bow and several arrows, knapsack, and copper-headed axe. Admire his attire as well – shoes, belt, leggings, undies, and a super-stylish striped coat. Sadly, it appears he was killed by an arrow shot from behind – a cold case that even the likes of Sherlock Holmes would be hard-pressed to solve.
Contemporary Collections in a Cube
Originally founded in 1985, Museion settled into its icy shell of a space about 20 years ago. On any walk through town, it’s hard to miss its ice cube-like structure on the edge of the Talvera River which cuts through the new and old parts of the city. Thanks to its rotating exhibitions of over 4000 works, it’s one museum to return to on each visit to Bolzano.
With the Winter Olympics upon us, artists Sonia Leimer and Christian Kosmas Mayer’s What We Carry is on view. In the first rom, a selection of 42 Olympic torches are set up atop of an infinity shaped running track. In the next, the Olympic torch from the 1936 Berlin Games accompanies Mayer’s installation of the story of Cornelius Johnson, the African American high jumper who took gold to the horror of the Nazi party. Johnson’s story of having never achieved recognition in Nazi Germany or his own country is told on the surrounding walls.
The Bolzano Bond Lair
Up on the hill overlooking the town is the Fondazione Antonio Dalle Nogare. The setting of this modern art gallery has something of a Bond Villain feel, constructed right into the hill from the materials found while rebuilding. Thank goodness, it’s much more Banksy than Blofeld.
Open during the week by invitation only and Saturdays free to the public with a free guided tour, it’s the brainchild of entrepreneur and contemporary art collector Antonio Dalle Nogare. Their mission is to be “a conduit for the exchange of ideas around contemporary art.”
One of the current exhibitions is dedicated to Ilia Zdanevich’s work and curated by Eva Brioschi and Julia Marchand. This little known Georgian Polish artist who worked with the likes of Coco Chanel, Duchamp, and Picasso is now finally recognized with his own retrospective. It’s a chance to see Duchamp’s La Boîte en Valise – a small briefcase containing miniatures of all of his important works, including his infamous urinal!
Gegessen… (Eating…)
There is no coming to Bolzano without a meal at Vögele. Laid out over multiple floors, this institution is loved by locals as well as visitors to the city. It has everything you would expect on a Südtiroler menu: Vögeles Knödel-Kistel (Tirolean dumplings), Hausgemachte Schlutzkrapfen-Spinatfüllung (homemade ravioli filled with spinach and cheese), and for dessert the best Kaiser Schmarren in town served alongside local cranberry sauce.
If it’s local canederli/knödel that is on your mind, Thaler’s Knödelbistro serves the prettiest in town. Brought to you by the Bolzano-born, perfumier brand Thaler founded in 1763, they somehow also know their way around a knödel or two. Pick two or three of the speck, cheese, spinach, beetroot or liver dumplings presented over sauerkraut or krautsalad, plus a beer and you are right at home.
For those who like something a bit more contemporary, American architect David Chipperfield was called on to create Mercato Centrale Bolzano, a multi-stall food hall set inside Walterpark, the town’s newest shopping centre. Sample everything from steak to pasta to sweets without committing to one menu!
…und Gedrinken (… & Drinking)
For a tiny town, Bolzano offers a surprising number of drinking experiences. Meta Bar sits right above Piazza Walther with either a direct view of the cathedral or central square with views out to the Dolomites. Don’t miss their signature Spritz made with a healthy dose of hibiscus.
Across the square, the Hotel Greif houses the intimate Grifoncino Bar. Don’t let this cool looking contemporary bar fool you: it has a large selection of gins and is known for their over 40 gin cocktails!
Everyone in town is drawn to the Laurin Bar in the lobby of the Laurin Hotel. Twists on classics never disappoint and their signature menu features their own gin, King Laurin.
Stay Somewhere Swish
I can see why Bolzano’s first guesthouse is still going strong. What would become The Parkhotel Mondschein first opened its doors in 1330 and, despite renovations throughout the years (most recently in 2020), continues to welcome guests.
Surrounded by a pretty park, it’s central enough to walk everywhere yet quiet and peaceful enough so you feel a little out of the fray. Its Luna Bar is open all-day from breakfast to late night Boulevardiers – another of the town’s great cocktail bars.
Getting to Bolzano: Fly Directly with SkyAlps
We have local entrepreneur Josef Gostner to thank for the ease of getting to Bolzano from London and other major cities in the world. He has the sense to acquire Bolzano Airport in 2019 and then establish SkyAlps.
Now just a few years later, Bolzano is just two hours from London’s Gatwick Airport, then a short drive of no more than 15 minutes into the city center. From the moment you board, you are plied with local treats and a selection of South Tyrol wines. You can even buy a few bottles to take home with you.
So that’s South Tyrolean charm in a nutshell, or perhaps in a krapfen. While the world descends on Milano/Cortina for Olympic fun and festivities, Bolzano waits for you a braccia aperte or mit offenen Armen depending on whom you are addressing!
Thank you to Ivan Allegranti from the Bolzano/Bozen Azienda di Soggiorno e Turismo. Their generosity was so appreciated. All opinions are my own!