Italian Ceramics in Grottaglie, Italy

Walking down along the lovely Via Francesco Crispi in the Puglia town of Grottaglie Italy, I thought maybe I had a little too much pasta and limoncello at lunch. Everywhere I looked – every store in this famous centre for Italian ceramics  – seemed to be owned by someone whose last name was Fasano.

It’s vaguely, kind of, reminiscent of Ray’s Pizza in New York City.  There is the Original Ray’s, the Famous Ray’s and the just plain, old Ray’s pizza..all doing the same thing – slinging pies with slightly different toppings.  Same here!  In the Quartiere di Italian Ceramics, is there one massive kiln hidden away cranking out pots for everyone?? How do you know which was really the first?  I just don’t know the answer and don’t think I ever will.

They’ve been making Italian ceramics here since the beginning of time, thanks to the abundant red clay in the heel of Italy’s boot Puglia. Found right in the heart of Puglia, the ancient town of Grottaglie has been a sanctuary for ceramic artisans for over 2,500 years. This small yet vibrant community, perched on a ravine in the Province of Taranto, is home to an extraordinary concentration of ceramic workshops that have earned it the title of “City of Ceramics.”

Notable Artisans and Workshops

The Fasano’s seemed to have cornered the market on Italian Ceramics.  In a space of one street, there are “botteghe” belonging to Nicola, Cinzia, Antonio, Enza, Francescao & Giuseppe!

• Bottega Fasano: Run by the Fasano family for generations, this workshop specializes in traditional Grottaglie designs featuring vibrant peacock motifs and geometric patterns.
• Nicola Fasano Ceramiche: Known for blending traditional techniques with contemporary designs, their pieces are sought after by collectors worldwide.
• Caruso Ceramiche: Not a Fasano – but masters of the traditional “pumi” designs – decorative pinecone-shaped ceramics that symbolize fertility and good fortune.

What is great is they all produce a different example of Italian Ceramics, something slightly different, so take the time to wander in and check out what each has to offer.  We made a mad dash through each store as we had spent too much time over the already mentioned lunch at the delicious Da Ricci in the wonderfully named town of Ceglie Messapica.  It was tough to try and not touch anything, but we were constantly aware of the “You Break It, You Buy It” rule governing the tow.

What to Buy

Traditional Pieces

• Capasoni (large storage jars)
• Pumi (decorative pinecone motifs)
• Bianchi di Grottaglie (traditional white-glazed pieces)
• Kitchen utensils and tableware

Contemporary Works

• Decorative wall plates
• Modern interpretations of traditional designs
• Art pieces and sculptures

Of all the Fasano’s, Nicola is probably the most famous of the Fasano clan, selling his Italian Ceramics throughout Italy and abroad. I was assured that my local Conran Shop in London had some plates on hand and I wasn’t disappointed to see a few of my favorite designs of his represented there.

Getting There

By Air

The nearest airports are:

• Brindisi Airport (50 km)
• Bari Airport (85 km)

By Train

• Take a train to Taranto from major Italian cities
• From Taranto, take a local train or bus to Grottaglie (20 minutes)

By Car

• From Bari: Take SS100 to Taranto, then SS7 to Grottaglie
• From Brindisi: Follow the SS7 directly to Grottaglie

When to Visit

The best time to visit is during:

• Spring (March-May) for comfortable temperatures and fewer tourists
• Fall (September-October) for the annual Ceramics Festival
• Avoid August when many workshops close for holidays

Shopping Tips

• Negotiate: Slight bargaining is acceptable, especially for multiple pieces.
• Visit Multiple Workshops: Each artisan has their unique style and specialties.
• Ask About Shipping: Many workshops offer international shipping for larger pieces.
• Watch the Artisans: Most are happy to demonstrate their techniques.
• Best Hours: Visit between 9:00-13:00 and 16:00-19:00.

Beyond Ceramics

While in Grottaglie, don’t miss:

• The Medieval Castle (Castello Episcopio)
• The historic center with its beautiful churches
• Local restaurants serving traditional Pugliese cuisine
• The nearby vineyards producing Primitivo wine

Where to Stay

In Grottaglie

• Antica Masseria: Historic farmhouse with modern amenities
• Relais Villa San Martino: Luxury option in a converted villa

Nearby

Stay in one of Puglia, Italy’s Luxury Hotels

• Palazzo Margherita: Frances Ford Coppola’s dream of a hotel
• Borgo Egnazio: The most elevated concept of wellbeing, a lifestyle inspired by Mediterannean culture. 
• Masseria San Domenico: This aesthetically exotic, 15th-century masseria, now a five-star hotel, epitomises the southern Italian ‘buon ritiro’ – offering an idyllic retreat where you can linger in palm-shaded gardens, wallow in the lagoon-like pool, pamper yourself in the spa or pitch and putt your way round the nearby golf course.” (Telegraph) 

Final Tips

• Bring cash – not all workshops accept cards
• Wear comfortable shoes – streets are often uneven
• Allow at least a full day to explore properly
• Consider hiring a local guide for detailed historical context
• Make appointments if you want to visit specific workshops

The ceramic tradition of Grottaglie isn’t just about shopping – it’s about experiencing a living, breathing art form that has shaped this community for millennia. Whether you’re a serious collector or simply appreciate handcrafted beauty, Grottaglie offers an authentic glimpse into one of Italy’s most enduring artistic traditions.

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