When visiting Memphis you know you’re going to get a healthy dose of Elvis, Beale Street, and BBQ. Aside from those three very tantalizing reasons for a Memphis visit, the town of Memphis holds a vital role, not only in the history of American music and cuisine, but also in the history of American civil rights.
Getting to Memphis
As of now, there are no direct flights to Memphis from London, Memphis travel couldn’t be easier with a transfer through any American city. I enjoyed flying American Airways Business Class through Chicago. What a treat! The service, food and cocktails were fabulous in equal measure.
All of the current films and shows were available on the huge TV, as well. You know the flight is perfect when nine-hours goes by too quickly!
Traveling Around the City
Trolley car
The centre of the city is linked by a trolley car which runs up and down South Main Street in downtown Memphis. For only one dollar, you can drive past Beale Street, the Civil Rights Museum and Central BBQ.
Memphis Museums Not To Miss
National Civil Rights Museum
One of the most tragic events to occur in Memphis was the assassination of Reverend Dr. Martin Luther King. Dr. King had flown to Memphis to support the African American sanitation workers who were on strike, protesting their inhumane working conditions. Reverend King perished on April 4, 1968 on the balcony of his room at the Lorraine Hotel.
That building, fraught with the burden of history, now houses the National Civil Rights Museum. Tracing the history of the American civil right movement from the 17th century to present day, the museum with its interactive exhibits and rich history, is a must for anyone visiting the city of Memphis.
National Civil Rights Museum, 450 Mulberry St, Memphis, TN 38103, United States
Graceland
For some, there is, and will only ever be, one King – Elvis Presley. The King of Rock and Roll chose to settle down in Memphis and bought himself a property which he called Graceland. Of all the Memphis attractions, Graceland was the one I wanted to see the most!
Flocks of Jailhouse Rock loving, Elvis fans have been coming to pay homage to the King since his untimely death at the age of 42. Visiting Memphis without visiting Graceland just can’t be done.
Not only that famous white house, but the cars, the clothes, the memorabilia and the jets, yes, there is more than one, are all larger than life, just like Elvis himself.
Don’t miss visiting the gift shop! It’s one of the best places to find your very own personal bit of Elvis memorabilia to take home with you!
Graceland, Elvis Presley Boulevard (of course!), Memphis, TN 38116, USA.
Sun Studio
From Graceland, all you music lovers, jump on the bus that links the house with Sun Studio, one of two music studios in Memphis that changed the sound of music. Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins, Roy Orbison, B.B. King and, of course, hometown boy, Elvis, all recorded some of their greatest hits here and Memphis rock was born.
Considered by some the birthplace of rock and roll, Sun Studio is still a working music recording studio, but they give tours, allowing you to be in the same room where the greats laid down their legendary tracks. One of the many fun things to do is pose with the same microphone those greats used!
Sun Studio – 706 Union Avenue, Memphis, TN 38103, USA.
You can buy your advance tickets here.
Stax Studio
At the time it was founded, Stax Studio broke all the rules. Completely integrated at a time when most of the American South was not, Stax Studio gave birth to a new sound – soul. Otis Redding was perhaps its biggest star, but many of the Stax hits have found themselves in the American psyche, including “Hold On, I’m Coming” by Sam and Dave, and “Knock on Wood” by Eddie Floyd, and “Shaft” by Isaac Hayes.
Although no longer a working studio, this museum honors its former artists and houses one-off memorabilia that are a part of music history. Not sure that Otis Redding’s Cadillac is an homage to anything, but it’s really fun to see it there.
Stax Museum of American Soul Music, 926 E McLemore Avenue, Memphis, TN 38126, USA.
You can buy advanced tickets here.
Beale Street
One of the most famous streets in the United States, Beale Street is known for bars, booze, and as the home of the blues, especially as it’s one of the only places in the country you can carry around an open container of an alcoholic beverage without getting busted. In the past, you would hear the likes of B.B. King and other Blues greats singing from the open doors of the many blues clubs. There is so much history on this one thoroughfare that my suggestion is to grab a tour of Beale Street given by Back Beat Tours.
By touring the street during day and building by building, you discover why USA Today called it “America’s Most Iconic Street.” By night, you will be too busy soaking up the sounds in one of its famous drinking establishments. Learn all about the music of Beale Street at the Rock N’ Soul Museum at #191!
I found the best way to get all the dirt was to take a walking tour of Beale Street!
Eating in Memphis
As far as I am concerned, BBQ, bourbon and beer are the three B’s of Memphis restaurants and bars. Eating BBQ in Memphis could qualify as an olympic sport. It takes training and planning, since you’ll want to sample as types of BBQ as you can.
When you are not eating BBQ, you’re having fried chicken. I planned to eat one for lunch and the other for dinner, but as I was traveling with the food/travel bloggers 2foodtrippers, this plan fell away as our mission to sample as many Memphis restaurants took hold.
Central BBQ
Most BBQ places are family run and have been making their secret recipe for years. No two are the same, making BBQ eating super exciting for those of us who are fans.
Central BBQ is the grand dame of them all and, after eating their chicken wings, I can never return to eating any other. I ordered six wings thinking this would be the not-so-filling option. That was a mistake. These were the meatiest wings and one of the best things I have ever eaten. You can choose a slew of different sauces – I chose Wet, Dry Spice and Sweet Heat. Needless to say, I was too full to try their ribs. A reason to return!
Central BBQ, 147 E Butler Avenue, Memphis, TN 38103, USA. (This is their original location, but they have others spotted around town!)
Payne’s
Set in an old garage, Payne’s is another unmissable BBQ stop, with homemade slaw that rivals their tangy BBQ sauce. Family-owned Payne’s is a winner since 1972, they can make you anything from a bologna sandwich (the best you have every had) to the most succulent ribs!
Payne’s Bar-B-Que, 1762 Lamar Avenue, Memphis, TN 38114, USA.
The BBQ Shop
For a twist on BBQ, try BBQ spaghetti at the BBQ shop. I am not sure what the Italians might make of it, but we couldn’t eat it fast enough. Spaghetti and BBQ – one of those combinations that could only emerge from a place where, no matter what type of food you are eating, Italian in this case, you can’t imagine it without BBQ on top.
The Bar-B-Q Shop, 1782 Madison Avenue, Memphis, TN 38104, USA.
Gus’s Fried Chicken
Fried Chicken is another of my all time favorite dishes and Gus’s Fried Chicken was worth the hour-long wait. Sometimes there is a reason that a restaurant has a reputation as far away as London. Just the right amount of black pepper and spice give it that celebrated bite. The only way to stop eating it if you want to leave a little room for that chess pie you saw on the menu.
Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken, 310 S Front Street, Memphis, TN 38103, USA, but there are loads of other locations!
The Four Way
The Four Way is one of the most historically important restaurants in town, having served Dr. King while he was in Memphis. It’s still serving fried chicken, turnips greens, macaroni and cheese to the throngs of tourist and locals combined
The Four Way 998 Mississippi Boulevard, Memphis, TN 38126, USA.
Ernestine and Hazel’s
If you are tired of chicken and ribs, then sample one of the best burgers in town at Ernestine and Hazel’s. Another building thick with history, I was there not to learn anything, but to sample their Soul Burger.
It’s the kind of delicious where you’ve been out on Beale Street and it’s 2am and you need something to a soak up all the bourbon and beer. The pickle juice drips down your hand and the cheese dribbles off the side, it’s the best thing you’ve ever eaten – that kind of delicious.
Ernestine & Hazel’s, 531 S Main Street, Memphis, TN 38103, USA.
Arcade Restaurant
Across the street from Ernestine’s and Hazels is the Arcade restaurant. The oldest cafe in Memphis, opened in 1919, Arcade is the classic American diner, serving up a southern breakfast you can’ eat anywhere else, like heaps of biscuits smothered in homemade gravy accompanied by country fried steak. Eggs are an option, as well as sweet potato pancakes. Don’t even think of ordering a salad!
The Arcade Restaurant, 540 S Main Street, Memphis, TN 38103, USA.
Memphis Bars
For Memphis Bars, head over to the Lush Guide to Memphis to find out where to find the best drinks in Memphis.
Staying in Memphis
Memphis hotels run the gamut, but there is only one with the March of the Ducks. Arriving at The Peabody Hotel Memphis to be greeted by Elvis himself crooning, “Can’t help falling in love with me” from the lobby piano bar seemed like a set-up. If that is not a warm welcome, I am not sure what is. Elvis impersonators are plenty in Memphis, but I was there to meet a few other residents of this historic hotel.
The Peabody Hotel
The Peabody Hotel is not just the most iconic hotel in downtown area, dating back to the 1880s and a Memphis institution, but it is home to the most famous Peabody ducks in the south. According to the Peabody,
The Peabody Duck March was established in 1933. For almost 90 years, twice a day, the Duck Master (yes, that is his official title) has led these willing participants in the March of the Ducks or Duck Parade as it is usually referred. If you want to see the Duck Parade, but aren’t staying at the Peabody, you can see them by taking a few walking tours!
Down the elevator, through the hotel lobby, past the delighted onlookers, and into the lobby’s central fountain they go at 11am and 5pm everyday. Get there early as the crowds gather at least a half hour before to see the fun.
The Peabody Hotel, 149 Union Avenue, Memphis TN 38103. You can find the best rates for the Peabody here.
I also stayed at the Sheraton Memphis Downtown Hotel. If you want to find your own Memphis hotel, you can research them here.
Best Bits of the Trip
I want to thank Saveur Magazine for all their support. They organzied a great party and loads of great food and drink. I also must thank Visit Memphis for arranging all the tickets for every museum!
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